There’s been quite a lot of retooling among the Bowery’s high-profile restaurants: Pulino’s closed to become Cherche Midi, Peels closed to make way for Bar Primi, Bowery Diner closed to become “a very different restaurant,” and, back in April, Paulaner Brauhaus suddenly shuttered. It reopened a few days ago as just plain Paulaner, pitching itself as less of a brauhaus and more of a “Modern Bavarian Restaurant and Brewery,” though master brewer Andreas Heidenreich is still crafting rotating brews in its copper and steel tanks.

To up the food game, new owners Wolfgang Ban (of Edi & The Wolf and The Third Man, in the East Village) and his partner Markus Tschuschnig have brought on executive chef Daniel Kill, who previously oversaw the kitchens of Café Sabarsky and Blaue Gans. In short, this is a bit of an Austrian dream team, and it shows in a menu that includes a giant crispy pork knuckle served in a cast-iron pan, and homemade Weisswurst served in a bowl of hot water (peel the skin off before eating, duh).

Having gotten a rustic makeover (read: deer horns behind the bar) and some funky filament-bulb light fixtures, the place feels a lot less corporate than before. Gone is all the Paulaner branding and the cheeseball framed black-and-white photos on the wall.

The beer is available in small, medium and big-as-your-head sizes. Check out the food menu here. Dinner is served from 5 p.m. to midnight; lunch starts June 12.

Paulaner, 265-267 Bowery, bet. East Houston and Stanton Sts.; (212) 780-0300