On the eve of Faro’s official opening tonight in Bushwick, a freshly skinned goat waited in the kitchen, next to a tub of garlic bulbs. “Such a huge percentage of my success is dealing with the best products,” said chef Kevin Adey (formerly of Northeast Kingdom”>Northeast Kingdom) about the restaurant he’s launching with his wife Debbie Adey. “It makes my job so much easier. The meat we have is the highest quality meat you can get. People think I’m a wizard and all I do is put salt on it.”
He may not be a wizard, but Adey’s focus on homemade pastas promises magical flavors conjured out of seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Organic flour is milled on site for pasta and breads, and the wood-burning oven is used to roast meats – all of which, like the goat, are said to be either organic or sustainable.
Once an art warehouse for MoMA, the 50-seat dining room consists of sturdy wooden tables arranged to direct attention toward the open kitchen and the oven, which is fed with firewood stacked in metal storage units near the hostess stand.
Kevin has lived in Bushwick for the past five years. “The most important thing,” he said, “was opening a neighborhood restaurant where people can come in and afford the food, while making sure we have world-class cocktails and use world-class products.”
The menu is reasonably priced, from $11 for Grano Arso Stracci (with morels, rosemary and parmesan chili pangrattato) to $20 for the Murray Gray Strip Loin with silage roasted potatoes and foie jus.
Behind the bar is Justin Lane Briggs, who mixes up cocktails like the New Bushwick Buck (rye, Americano Rosso, lime, ginger and maraschino) and Cameron’s Kick (whiskey, Scotch, orgeat and lemon).
“I’m so happy to make great pasta and work with my hands,” said Kevin, who had been out of the kitchen for five months because the opening of the restaurant was delayed. “I’m reminded why I’ve been doing this for 20 years.”
Faro, 436 Jefferson Street, Bushwick; open 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. nightly, brunch is to come; 718-381-8201.