Yes, A.W.O.L. is a “Farm to Fork Eatery,” but the East Williamsburg newcomer isn’t just for those pretentious foodies from Portlandia. True to its name, which stands for All Walks of Life, the place caters to vegetarians, vegans, celiacs, omnivores, and anything in between.
“We want to keep the integrity of the food as a chef-driven restaurant,” said general manager Joshua Fazeli. “People can come in and spend as little as $3 on a Founder’s IPA, or they can spend as much as $150 on a great bottle of wine.”
Many of those bottles are sourced from McCall Wines in Cutchogue, New York; Fazeli will tell you, while Alanis Morisette plays in the background, how the chardonnay’s grapes are outsourced from the vineyard next door and aged in steel. The cheeses also come from the owner of McCall, who works for a gourmet foods distributor.
Any produce that’s not seasonally and locally available comes from small farms in California or other warm-weather states. Daily menu changes are noted on a full-length mirror that makes up a good part of the minimalist dining room’s decor, along with a painting and wall mural by Finnish artist Rubin415. (We’ll let the trippy bathroom art remain a surprise.)
During a recent visit, Roberta Glick, who lives around the corner from the restaurant, said she was “really impressed by the prices.” But know that the plates tend to be on the small side. “The food has so many layers of flavor that you don’t wanna overdo it,” Fazeli explained. “You want just enough.”
Brunch plans are in the making, with one potential dish speaking to Fazeli’s love of theatrics: prosciutto speck is encompassed in brittle; a waiter gives guests an ice pick and hammer so they can make their own serving of the dish. Oh, but don’t call them waiters. “It’s not a waiter job,” Fazeli corrects. “It’s a front-of-house job. Everyone gets paid the same.”
A.W.O.L. Farm to Fork Eatery, 336 Graham Avenue, nr. Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn; (347) 457-6752