This is kind of amazing: a little over a month ago, Williamsburg favorite Samurai Mama managed to open a spin-off without any of the food blogs getting wind of it.
Maybe that’s because Samurai Papa, as Mama’s sister restaurant (husband restaurant?) is called, is located on a side street across from the Lindsay Park Houses, in the sort of Bushwick-East Williamsburg netherworld that some have termed Eastwick. But now that it’s noodle-soup season, it’s going to be hard for this place to stay hidden.
Unlike Samurai Mama, which specializes in udon noodles, Papa’s got a brand new bag — namely, ramen in an array of varieties: shoyu, spicy, vegan, and aori. There are also traditional appetizers such as gyoza and sushi rolls, as you can see from the menu. And “sushi shots” (below) consisting of combinations like salmon, roe, and seaweed served in shot glasses. (If you prefer for-reals shots, rest assured sake is served, as are shiso mojitos).
Though similarly appointed, this smaller offshoot is less of a rustic hideaway than the Williamsburg gem. But it’s a solid option if you live in the area and don’t want to jump on the L to dine at the original.
Samurai Papa, 32 Varet St., East Williamsburg, 718-599-7171