It was almost a year ago that Colin Devlin closed his pioneering restaurant Dressler and shook the Williamsburg restaurant community by taking his own life. Tonight, Dressler’s chef of six years, Polo Dobkin, revives the space as Meadowsweet.
His wife and partner in the new restaurant, Stephanie Lempert, helped revamp one of the neighborhood’s most iconic rooms with what she describes as a “feminine touch.”
“We really wanted to open up the space and bring an airy but warm feeling to it,” she told us before dinner service today. Before they began work in January, she and Dobkin spent a lot of time in the country. That’s apparent in wallpaper patterned with an image of the restaurant’s namesake herb (drawn by Lempert, whose art also hangs on the walls), and an herb garden above the entrance that feeds the seasonal cocktails with ingredients like mint, rosemary, and eventually peppers for spicy drinks.
In the dining room, light glints off the century-old original floor tiles and succulents sourced with the help of Brooklyn Grange (which also helped with the herb garden) sit on each table.
True to the rustic motif, Dobkin is into simplicity, and letting ingredients shine through. Pastry chef Jared Rubin is an alum of Bouchon Bakery, Dover and Battersby. You can see a larger version of a recent menu by clicking the image below. Grub Street has photos of some of the dishes.
Meadowsweet, 149 Broadway nr. Bedford Ave., Williamsburg; 718-384-0673