Man, we got so worked up yesterday about Vogue’s patronizing praise of Brooklyn dining that we forgot to mention one of the things that irked us the most: Jeffrey Steingarten’s complaint about the “subway ride that often dumped us eight dark and unfamiliar blocks from supper” at Roberta’s.
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jeffrey steingarten
Vogue Makes the ‘Long, Bumpy,’ ‘Perilous,’ ‘Costly, Time-Consuming, Often Nauseating’ Trek into Brooklyn
This month’s issue of Vogue also includes a Brooklyn-themed fashion spread featuring Devon Aoki (right) outside of the Bedford Cheese Shop.
It’s apparently been too long since a middle-aged Manhattanite went on safari in Brooklyn, so none other than Vogue has gone and published “A Distant Shore,” in which Jeffrey Steingarten “table-hops around New York’s most talked-about borough.” Oh, boy.
If the name Steingarten sounds familiar it’s not because you’re thinking of Soundgarden — it’s because a few years ago, Vogue’s restaurant critic touched off a small shitstorm among foodie types when he told Grub Street about the “dangers of Brooklyn boosterism,” recalling the time his Brooklyn-proud assistant brought him a croissant from some bakery she liked over there and he found it “only acceptable” compared to the great croissanteries of Manhattan (you know, like, Au Bon Pain).
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