Takeout joints within the Lower East Side’s Cologne Zone have traditionally pandered to the drunk and hungry, but amidst the taco shacks and 99-cent slice joints, a decidedly haute concept has arrived. Les Jardins de la Duchesse, as the Orchard Street newcomer is haughtily called, will specialize in eclairs. That’s right, eclairs.
Actually, there will be something here for the sauced: the petite patisserie will offer a bacon-wrapped goat-cheese eclair, plus three other savory varieties along with six sweet ones. According to its website, they’ll be made by Chef Antoine Pelhate, who apprenticed in France at age 15 and went on to work in Swiss restaurants and hotels. Among his sweet pastries are a coffee eclair stuffed with Arabica coffee cream and topped with coffee icing. Hello.