“I grew up right down the block,” Johnny Huynh (co-owner of Lucy’s, a tiny new Vietnamese restaurant in Bushwick) explained, beaming. “I’m a native. But it’s funny– I was never home. I was always out being a bad kid. So that was part of the ambition for this place, I wanted to learn to cook Vietnamese to learn more about my heritage.” Johnny, who is spotted with tattoos and looks as young as 25 sounds, sat down across the table from me at Lucy’s after I’d furiously whipped through a bowl of his fragrant bowl of vegetarian pho. This broth will be the base for all pho on offer here– no chicken or beef broth, but you can throw in some brisket if you’re feeling frisky. But man, Johnny’s broth is right up there with any of the meaty broths I’ve had, and honestly it only had to be about a quarter as good as this was to keep me coming back.