Drunken Dumpling owner Yuan Lee prepares a takeout order. (Photos: Marie Dupont)

If you manage to lift your nose from the aromatic steam of the food on your plate, you might catch sight of a fast-moving silhouette at the back of the Drunken Dumpling restaurant. When he isn’t in the kitchen, Yuan Lee is making pork filling in the basement or picking up deliveries outside. His smooth skin, young features and non-imposing presence could fool anyone into thinking that this is a man of gentleness and compromise. But Lee is on a mission.

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