The exterior suggests little, but looks can be deceiving. Pass through the glass doors of this giant, anonymous building at 20 Elizabeth Street in Chinatown, take the long escalator upstairs, and you’ll enter a palatial hall of plush walls, massive chandeliers and rows upon rows of large, round tables.

Jing Fong Restaurant serves small dishes at a large scale. The dim sum eatery first opened in 1978, in a 150-seat room down the street. By contrast, its current banquet hall may welcome upwards of 2,000 diners in a single day. And with the Lunar New Year kicking off today, the restaurant expects to be even busier than usual.

Jing Fong’s enormous staff will be out in force during the coming festivities. Its army of dim sum servers weave through the restaurant with carts that teem with everything from spare ribs to vegetable dumplings. Between the windowless environs and the pushcarts’ constant circling, it’s easy to lose track of time, but the dim sum costs a pittance and the green tea is free, making Jing Fong an affordable indulgence.